How to clean an old silver coin. How to keep silver clean for a long time

With the era of the development of the capabilities of metal detectors, treasure hunting is experiencing another heyday. On the one hand, this led to the extraction of a fairly large number of coins that were previously considered exceptional rarities. Now even 2 kopecks of 1925 or 1927 are put up for auction often enough to purchase them for the collection if funds are available. On the other hand, there are still few decently preserved copies, because almost a century of being in the ground leaves indelible marks on the coin. How to turn a black metal circle with a cherished date into something resembling a coin that will be fought for at auctions? This question brings the new owner of the rarity to the cleaning process. The same processes have to be dealt with by those who acquired a collection that was stored inappropriately.

Stage 0 - Preview

Let's say it very loud and clear right away: any cleaning will not turn her object into a "UNC" state coin. Even if there are no cavities and nicks on the coin, and the coin field begins to sparkle, the experienced eye of a collector or trader will instantly distinguish it from the native brilliance inherent in specimens that have just left the territory mint. The price of a polished coin is much lower than the value of its sister, found in the "Uncirculated" category ("Without Circulation"). That is why there are so many comments on the forums: "You just cleared half the value of the coin." A beautiful patina for old coins is much preferable to an unnatural sheen after hard cleaning.

If you have an expensive copy in your hands, you should not take on cleaning it without having sufficient experience. It is better to pay ten thousand to a specialist and get a coin that can start at a hundred thousand than to find a twisted piece of metal that even a beginner will not want to put in a collection. Having two coins minted from the same metal - a rare and a common one - it is worth trying the cleaning method first on an ordinary coin and making sure that the cleaning did not kill the coin and did not cause significant harm to it.

At this stage, we take and put aside all the coins of the "PROOF" design and with a polished coin field. These coins are not subject to cleaning. Any impact is detrimental to them. Study the auction passages (you can use the database of our site) and you will see how the smallest defect significantly reduces the price and makes most sellers refuse to purchase a copy of less than perfect condition. If it seems to you that it is easy and simple to remove a small dark spot, then remember the parable of the monkey that was dragging peas and dropped the pea. Trying to pick it up, she dropped ten more. In an attempt to collect them, she scattered another hundred. In the same progression, defects will grow on a polished coin with the simplest cleaning. Yes, polished coins are cleaned by professionals, but that process is no longer closer to cleaning, but to restoration (which we will not touch on here).

If you still can’t wait to get into polished coins, please read the article on our site "How to launder money", dedicated to the gentle cleaning of silver in the "PROOF" category.

Step 1 - soap solution and rinse

To remove dried dirt, it is worth placing the coins to be cleaned in a soapy solution. This will soften hard foreign formations on the coin. After some time, they will either peel off on their own, or it will be easy to remove them without damage to the coin field (which would not happen if we try to pick out a dried-up hard lump). The coins of the last century are mostly resistant to the aquatic environment, so being in a soapy solution will not harm them. Of course, you should not keep coins made of iron and other materials that quickly rust in water in water. If you want to check not in word, but in deed, pour a handful of modern dimes with a steel base into the water. Prolonged exposure to water will spoil them hopelessly. But a brass coin can be in the water element for a long time.

After being removed from the solution, the coin needs to be washed. Experts do not recommend using tap water. Due to the chloride compounds in its composition, after drying, you may find a light coating on some coins, which negatively affects the overall impression of the specimen. Therefore, get either distilled water or non-carbonated bottled water from the nearest store. Of course, if we gain experience in cleaning brass or nickel recent years USSR, then we exclude unnecessary expenses, and tap water is quite suitable for them. Inexpensive coins can be cleaned in parallel with washing with a soft toothbrush with non-abrasive paste. This method removes softened dirt from hard-to-reach places.

Washing with distilled water and soap is suitable even for "PROOF" coins if you have dropped these valuable pieces in the dirt. Of course, here the toothbrush is categorically excluded. After washing, drying is necessary. Drops of water are removed with a soft cloth or napkin. Moreover, this is not rubbing, but blotting coins. That is, you only touch the surface, and do not crawl along it in all directions. After blotting, dry the coin near a heat source (for example, incandescent lamps). This does not mean that in order to save time, you should bring a coin into the region of the highest temperatures by placing it on the heater grate. From high temperatures valuable coin may simply crack or melt.

Stage 2 - chemistry: from cheap to expensive

Instance before cleaning

Plans and dreams of the collector * * * * * Harsh reality at the end of the process

It’s worth gaining experience on the cheapest copies, which then it’s not a pity to throw it away. At this stage, many illusions are broken. It seems that after cleaning, the coin will simply change color from black or green to original and will begin to resemble specimens resting in museum showcases. The result, most often, is something else: a corroded coin field of a disgusting appearance and a relief crumpled beyond recognition. And all because the patina is not a raid from the outside, but a part of the coin itself. It smooths out imperfections and hides flaws. By removing it, you will expose all hidden defects. Sometimes dry cleaning tears off almost the entire relief, which has gone into a patina from time to time, and in front of us is no longer a coin, but a strange circle on which neither numbers nor inscriptions can be made out.

Decided to clean up? Be sure to determine what metal the coin was minted from. A tool ideal for one metal will irrevocably destroy others, if you do not take into account the composition of the ingredients included in it. The most difficult thing is to clean coins made of tin or lead. These are very soft metals. For them, both abrasive cleaning, which erases the relief, and most chemicals are contraindicated. But aluminum coins are easy to clean. The film that forms on them quickly replaces the original shine with an unsightly haze. But it is easily removed with a simple composition (experts recommend 50 grams of borax, 5 grams of ammonia per 1 liter of water). After such cleaning, aluminum is not washed, but dried immediately.

Aluminum bronze and brass are easy to clean with modern kitchen chemicals. However, it should be remembered that chemistry washes out copper, and the color of a golden brass coin becomes pink or scarlet (beginners, having seen such a specimen, immediately drag it to numismatists under the guise of a rare copper probe). Therefore, by experiments on cheap coins, make up your chemical series according to the degree of impact on the coin. Initially, try to rectify the state of affairs with a weaker composition, and only then proceed to strong reagents.

Copper, after parting with the patina, acquires a sharp reddish tint. Therefore, when working with copper, one must either accept the coin as such, or proceed to the next stage of the collector's basic skills - self-patina, which returns the coin to its usual chocolate color.

Stage 3 - family silver

Cleaning darkened silver does not require any additional skills. But remember that "PROOF" silver should not be cleaned in the same way as tablespoons or teaspoons left over from previous generations. Otherwise, the coin will be sold not at the price of the catalog, but at the price of the metal on the exchange. Those who work with ancient coins, in which other metals are present in addition to pure silver, have to deal with the removal of oxides. If it is copper, then the coin may turn green. Here the recommendations of experts differ, based on their own experience. Someone uses a five percent composition of sulfuric acid, and someone uses a ten percent composition of formic acid, heating it to seventy degrees Celsius. Much worse if the coin has acquired a purple-gray hue. This is the so-called "horn silver". It should be disposed of only with full confidence that there is definitely a core of healthy metal under it. A ten percent ammonia solution will help us here. After softening the gray-violet layer, it is removed with a soft cloth.

Stage 4 - gold, platinum and palladium

If the material of the coin belongs to this trinity of chemically inert metals, then the task is both simple and complex. Chemistry won't help here. Of course, with due diligence, you can get a reagent that will dissolve them, but it's better to do without it. Soap solution and rinse in water without chlorine. This is quite enough. Some seek to polish the coin before selling it. But the unnatural shine, coupled with natural scratches, is more likely to scare off potential buyers than increase their number.

Stage 5 - Specialized Fluids

A number of reputable companies have long taken care of collectors, offering them a wide range of cleaning products that can significantly improve appearance coins. In addition, there are products of small enterprises on the domestic market, which also have a positive effect on the appearance. When purchasing this or that product, you should carefully familiarize yourself with which particular metal (or group of coins) it is intended for. Calculate the economic effect of its application. After all, having bought an expensive imported product and spent it on bringing a couple of coins into a tolerable appearance, which are easy to buy for fifty at any auction, you will not receive anything but moral satisfaction. After trying a number of tools, you will also notice that cleaning them sometimes does not rid the coins of the resulting defects, but only masks them for the time being. As an example, we show a bimetallic ten.

Yes, after cleaning, dark stains no longer disturb the eyes of a potential buyer. However, a picky collector may point out that these divorces have not gone away. They are still present on the ring rim, however, in a bleached state. This is further evidence that the purge does not move coins into the "UNC" category, which is the price tag of the modern anniversary.

In the following articles, we will describe in detail how to bring an inexpensive coin into decent condition at room conditions with the help of the simplest cleaning. You will also learn about mechanical cleaning, as well as why scrapers are required. In the meantime, we hope that this small review will give you an initial idea of ​​​​cleaning coins and protect you from inept actions with which you will spoil the rarity that you accidentally got.

Antique silver coins tend to fade over time and even turn green. And then there is the problem of cleaning silver coins. This discoloration is usually due to the presence of some copper in them. Numismatists call tarnishing patina.

If the surface of the coin is dirty, then it will have to be cleaned. With patina, the situation is twofold: on the one hand, such oxidation spoils the appearance of the coin, but on the other hand, such an uncleaned coin can cost much more. But if you want to admire the brilliance of silver, it is better to clean it. It can be ordered by a restorer or carried out.

In the first case, you will have a 100% guarantee of cleaning quality and significant financial costs. By doing the cleaning yourself, you will save a lot of money, but its result will depend not only on your diligence and patience, but also on luck. After all, often under a layer of patina there are various small surface damage, and with inept or careless cleaning, you can only aggravate the situation. Therefore, if your collection contains valuable specimens, you should not save on the services of a restorer.

Before you clean coins, you need to decide (at least approximately) on their value, degree of contamination and wear. Usually, when minted, high-grade silver was used for large coins, and lower for small ones.

The main ways to clean coins

There are several methods available for cleaning silver coins that can be used at home:

• soapy water or gruel;
• toothpaste or powder;
• soda;
• vinegar;
• ammonia;
• citric acid;
• special cleaning agents.

Using soap to clean coins of any metal is the most gentle, but at the same time the least effective way. Soap will help remove dirt and grease from the surface, but will not rid it of plaque. First you need to prepare a cleaning agent. For the preparation of a soap solution, baby soap is best suited. A coin is placed in such a solution for a while, then removed and cleaned with a toothbrush under running water. The brush must be soft, otherwise the surface of the coin will be in small scratches. Usually, it is not possible to clean the coin at once, so you have to repeat this procedure several times.

Cleaning in a soapy "porridge" is similar to the first method, only it is not a solution that is prepared for it, but a slurry of finely planed baby or laundry soap. A coin is placed in such a gruel and left for a while so that the soap corrodes grease and dirt. Sometimes it takes several weeks. At the end of the cleaning period, the coin is taken out, washed and cleaned with a soft toothbrush.

Brushing with toothpaste or tooth powder also does a good job of removing grease and dirt. Perform this cleaning by applying a little toothpaste or powder to the surface of the coin and wiping it with a soft, clean cloth. But when choosing this method, you need to take into account that there are pastes in which abrasive particles are added for better whitening. Such pastes can easily scratch the surface of the coin, so they cannot be used for cleaning.

Soda does a good job of removing green oxidized stains, so this method is mainly used for low-grade coins. If the coin is of great value, it is better to refuse this method, since soda is an abrasive material and will most likely leave scratches on the surface when cleaned. To clean, soda must first be mixed with water to make a mushy mass. This gruel is rubbed into the surface of the coin until the silver shines again.

You can use ordinary table vinegar 6% for cleaning. With a soft cloth dipped in it, you need to clean the coin until you achieve the desired result. To get the result faster and better, it is better to warm the vinegar a little.

Cleaning silver coins with ammonia is one of the most popular methods among numismatists. The coin should be dipped in ammonia for 3-4 minutes, then removed and wiped with a soft cloth. This procedure must be repeated until the plaque disappears and the coin shines like new.

Normal citric acid cleans silver items well. Her tablespoon is dissolved in half a glass of water, and then a coin is lowered into this solution. It remains there for 2-3 seconds, after which it is taken out and wiped with a clean soft cloth. However, this method requires experience and skill, because if the coin is kept in solution for too long, the effect will be exactly the opposite of what was expected. Therefore, many numismatists prefer to use freshly squeezed lemon juice instead of citric acid: it is not as aggressive as acid.

If there is a desire, then in the nearest jewelry store you can buy a special liquid for cleaning silver products, ready for use. But if you do not strictly follow the instructions for its use, you can ruin the coin, because such cleaning products remove a very thin layer of silver from the surface. If you are determined to do the cleaning yourself, stick to the algorithm: from simple to complex, from less valuable to more valuable.

In practice, this means that before you start cleaning silver coins, it is better to first try to clean copper coins. So you will check your capabilities, and fill your hand a little, and if you fail, it will not be so annoying, because copper coins are valued for the most part by an order of magnitude, or even two, cheaper than silver ones.

The first silver coins appeared around 600 BC. e., Lydia and Asia Minor are considered to be their states of origin. At the same time, a method of producing coins called coinage appeared.

AT modern world a silver coin has lost its relevance as a banknote. Now it is the pride of numismatists or one of the ways to invest.

Silver coins are a great investment, but to keep a copy in perfect condition, it is worth knowing in advance and taking care of how to properly clean a silver coin so that it remains safe and sound.

Coin classification

The basis of the classification of any coins is the method of minting. There are several types:
l proof: minted coins of improved quality, the main features are a mirror field and relief with a matte surface, most often such coins were issued for royal courts and collection purposes;
l proofflake: in literal translation - similar to proof, a coin that lacks some mandatory quality for proof;

Exclusively for silver coins, the division is accepted:
l high-quality 625 test and above;
l Base up to 625 samples.

Most often, an alloy of silver and copper is used to make banknotes.

Coins that reach numismatists bear the imprint of time, place and human hands. The first urge is to clean the silver coins and immediately. But if there is no skill, then you can hopelessly spoil them. To accurately determine the degree of cleaning, whether it will return the necessary qualities, practice is needed. Before you take on a valuable item, it is better to practice on coins that are not important for collectors.

Silver Coin Cleaning Methods

At first glance, cleaning silver coins is a very simple task. In fact, this is a very delicate process. First of all, it is necessary to find out the composition of the alloy from which the product is made and the amount of oxidation. Then the numismatic value of the product is determined. These conditions are necessary for the correct choice of means and method of purification. As a general rule, when starting work, the banknote is kept for several days in a soap solution. After washing and wiping dry. There are chemical and mechanical methods. The second at home is used to gently remove dirt. It is desirable to avoid mechanical (using abrasive materials) cleaning methods. In order not to cause unnecessary scratches on the surface and to preserve the value of the coin as much as possible.

Clean or not

The layer of oxides on the surface of a banknote is called patina. It is twofold: either these are spots and stripes that need to be removed, or it covers the product evenly. In the second case, this is a direct evidence of the value of the coin, and if there is no corrosion, the best protective layer. Then it's better to leave it as is.

"Inhumane" methods

The most famous remedy is baking soda. It is diluted to the state of gruel and rubbed with fingers until darkening disappears. The method is simple, but using it, you can scratch the product and it will lose its value. Therefore, it is better to use other means.

We use chemistry

A good tool for cleaning silverware at home is the use of a solution of citric acid. It can be purchased at the grocery supermarket. The degree of concentration of citric acid is selected from the amount of pollution, but you should not overdo it. This method is best suited for low-grade silver products. The coin is placed briefly in the solution, where it is regularly turned over. The surface is then wiped with a soft cloth. If necessary, acid cleaning is repeated. It is necessary to constantly monitor the process so that the coin retains its color. When cleaning with citric acid, occasionally the products are “boiled”, but not more than 10 minutes.

If you plan to clean valuables from high-grade silver, then it is better to do it with ammonia. A 10% solution is applied. It is advisable not to hurry, to withstand the product for 1-2 hours. Some want to immediately get the result by heating the product to a boil. Best quality receive those who repeat the procedure over and over again. After soaking, a soft brush is taken, which succeeds in oxides.

Interesting
If you start cleaning coins at home, no matter what product is used, following the recommendations, you will maintain the numismatic value of the product.

Rules for cleaning silver coins

• try not to use acid, it is better to use a soft brush and a soap solution;
• starting the procedure, accurately determine the sample, the type of oxides, whether there is a metal core;
• if the coins stick together, then dip them in a 5% ammonia solution and heat slightly, then separate;
• immersed in any solution, do not let the products touch each other and turn them over regularly;
• after all procedures, the product is degreased either in running water or in a weak solution of alcohol;
• coins cannot be kept over an open flame - dry only with rags;
• use gloves and tweezers when working.

There are many cleaning methods. But the process is very delicate and unhurried. If you are careful and persistent, you will please yourself and give the silver coin a new life.

It is very easy to clean silver coins at home. In simple ways, you can remove green plaque and black spots. Green mold appears on low quality silver coins containing copper. It is removed with ammonia.

Soapy water and toothbrush

The easiest way to clean silver coins from dirt is with ordinary soapy water and a toothbrush. Tooth powder may also be used. But the procedure must be gentle so that there are no scratches on the coin.

Baking soda and foil

Very often, silver oxidizes and turns black, you can restore the natural shine in this way. In 500 ml of water, 1-2 tablespoons of soda are diluted, brought to a boil. Next, you need to take aluminum foil, lower it into water and put silver coins, heat for about 15 minutes. The disadvantage of this method is that the coins lose their patina and become shiny, which is not very popular with numismatists.

Alternatively, you can make a slurry of soda and water, or of soda and ammonia, and rub the coin with a toothbrush. Many do not use this method, because. be afraid to scratch the coins.

Professional tool Asidol

If you do not want to bother with soda and boiling, buy a special cleaner for silver products, such as Asidol-M. Drip one drop on a cloth and wipe the coin. Alternatively, you can use foreign analogues Leuchtturm or Silbo.

Ammonia

A solution of ammonia will help clean an old silver coin. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and a coin is wiped with a soft cloth.

Lemon acid

You can clean silver coins very quickly with ordinary citric acid. We dilute citric acid in warm water and lower the coins. From time to time, the dirt will separate, and it is necessary to take out the coin and wipe it.

When cleaning silver coins, it is important not to overdo it, because. clearly visible traces of cleaning reduce the value of the coin. After cleaning, conservation of the coin is recommended to avoid environmental influences.

Cleaning silver coins at home is a responsible occupation, since in many cases silver coins are already much more expensive than copper coins (on which cleaning methods are usually trained). If the coin is very expensive, do not be stingy and give it to a restorer, or sell it uncleaned.

Well, if you still decide to clean a silver coin, this article will help you at least not spoil your "habor".

First of all, we determine the degree of contamination of the surface of the coin, and approximately estimate the quality of the silver. Usually large silver coins (ruble, fifty, half-fifty dollars) were minted from high-grade silver, for example, 728 samples ().

Smaller coins went for low-grade silver, so blackening and green plaque (impurities of another metal) can most often be seen on them.

And judging in general, silver coins are rarely found in poor condition, more often they are in excellent "preservation" - a noble metal.

Cleaning silver coins with ammonia

Ammonia will be able to easily remove the "green coating", and bring your coin into a great look. What should be done? We dip our coin in alcohol for 1-2 minutes, take it out, wipe it with cotton, and see if our plaque disappears. If there is no effect, perform this procedure several times.

Green plaque is created by copper oxides, and this, of course, spoils the appearance of the coin. How else to remove it? There is an excellent drug that anyone can purchase in every pharmacy, this is Trilon V. The quality and cleaning procedure is similar to ammonia.

To clean coins with citric acid, you need to dilute it in boiled water (as shown in the video after the article), and lower our coin into a saucepan with our solution, without stopping boiling, we look for changes, we do everything carefully. This method is very good for cleaning Soviet low-grade silver billons. You can also see in the video that the coin of Nicholas 2, having lain in the ground for 100 years, was not at all contaminated with oxides, and it was enough to wash it in running water, all because the silver in royal coins is very clean.

Now there are many special preparations for cleaning silver coins, although they are not cheap, but I can tell you that the effect is amazing. I advise you to try.

Also used: table salt, washing powder, cleaned with potatoes, lemons (lemon juice), ammonia solution,.

Cleaning silver coins with vinegar

We need 9% vinegar. Usually low-grade silver is cleaned in this way. Leave the coin for 5-15 minutes in vinegar (depending on the degree of contamination), and then wipe it with a soft suede cloth. Some people heat up a little vinegar before inserting the coin, probably for greater effect. To be honest, I did not warm anything, so I will not advise.

Finally, I suggest watching the video: "Cleaning silver at home" ...